It's 8pm. It has finally cooled down a bit in the Serbian capital (the thermometer has dropped to 35 º C). While the speakers play Danubius Radio FM, beads of sweat fall onto our heads. Heads whose only thought is to enjoy a well-deserved beer. We go to sit on one of the splavovi (barges). In the mornings, they are restaurants where you have to try the burek(a must if you go to the Balkans, similar to pie filled with cheese or meat, though quite greasy) and a yogurt drink. At night, they become floating nightclubs. They are recognized by the intense colors that light up the night on the banks of the Danube.